1988 Grand Puy Lacoste

An excellent aged red with attractive, complex aromas of cigars, musk, earth and touches of pepper and ginseng. Some fruit is still left, with a medium body and fresh acidity. The tannins are silky, but there is still firmness. Long and lively. 78% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 4% cabernet franc. 12.5% alcohol. Drinkable now, but can still hold for a few years. From a vertical tasting at the winery.

Bright ruby and layered. Very sturdy and concentrated. Would have cost about £10 a bottle en primeur. Dry and dusty peppermints! (JR)

The 1988 Grand Puy Lacoste has a leafy bouquet, quite rustic in style, certainly what you might describe as “old school” Bordeaux. It reminds me of going up into an attic, but it is utterly charming. The palate is medium-bodied and certainly rather green on the entry. It is surprisingly soft but unlike say the 1990, it does not provide the fruit and substance to back it up. The nose is actually better than the palate but frankly bottles should be consumed in the near future. Tasted at the château.