1998 Ornellaia

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Good vintage for Bolgheri compared with inland Tuscany which needed a warm autumn. Made by Andrea Giovanini who made the wine immediately before Thomas Duroux arrived in 2001. Hand-harvesting of the Merlot started the first week of September and continued until mid September, followed by the Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc which was completed by the beginning of October. Destemmed and crushed before fermentation in wood and stainless-steel tanks at a temperature not exceeding 30 °C. Maceration continued for a period of 20 – 25 days after which the wine was introduced into new French oak barriques (50%) and second-use barriques (50%) where it completed its malolactic fermentation. Each grape variety and each vineyard lot was aged separately. The wine remained in barriques for a period of 18 months after which time the wine was then blended and bottled. A further refinement period of 12 months in the bottle followed, prior to release. Dark crimson and healthy glow. Aromatic, almost Cabernet Franc-like aromas. Very fresh rather than big and warm. Still lively, fine tannins. Pretty wine for food. (JR)

The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998 the blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in French oak, 50% new.

The 1998 is a decidedly slender Ornellaia. More advanced than the 1999, it shows notes of tobacco, herbs and ripe fruit on a medium-bodied frame with good length on the palate and slightly less polished tannins than is usually the case. The final blend in 1998 was 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.