2009 Barbera d'Alba Gallina

The 2009 Barbera d'Alba Gallina is rich, powerful and direct. I am surprised by the wine's huge structure, as I expected a softer Barbera given the vintage and site. Plums, mocha, licorice and grilled herbs all flesh out in the powerful, incisive Barbera. With time in the glass, the wine turns increasingly floral and delicate, yet never loses its essential depth. Readers will need to be patient, but there is no denying the 2009 is shaping up to be a wonderful bottle.

The 2009 Barbera d’Alba Gallina is rich, powerful and direct. I am surprised by the wine’s huge structure, as I expected a softer Barbera given the vintage and site. Plums, mocha, licorice and grilled herbs all flesh out in the powerful, incisive Barbera. With time in the glass, the wine turns increasingly floral and delicate, yet never loses its essential depth. Readers will need to be patient, but there is no denying the 2009 is shaping up to be a wonderful bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(aged for a year in barriques , 50% new and 50% once-used, then in stainless steel until the bottling in July of this year): Black fruits, violet and sexy oak on the nose; reminded me of a California cabernet. Rich and fairly large-scaled, with concentrated flavors of blackberry, cassis and violet. Initially seemed a bit flat for barbera but this very ripe wine possesses adequate acidity. Ready now.