2009 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

The 2009 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre comes across as rich, round and pretty. Smoky and minerally at first, the fruit blossoms on the mid-palate and then truly gains dimension on the big finish. Expressive white stone fruits and flowers linger on the close. It is a wine of notable complexity and pedigree. This is two-thirds Chapelots and one-third Pied d'Aloup, vinified separately. The south facing Chapelots, on the lower slope of the hill, is richer in fruit while the east to southeast facing Pied d'Aloup is more aromatically complex, mineral and fresh. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Very pale yellow. Dusty crushed stone, apple, lime and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Rich, broad, full and quite dry, with a hint of pineapple ripeness currently overshadowed by stone. Plenty of tension and sneaky length here. Finishes chewy, tactile and young--in need of at least three or four years of cellaring.

Saline lemony nose, slightly herbal. Dry, finely textured and long. Mostly texture at the moment. Fresh, dry and moreish. (JH)