2006 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

The Leflaive 2006 Chablis Montee de Tonerre smells bitter-sweetly of flowers and herbs. Its lime, herb and white pepper palate puts one a bit in mind of Gruner Veltliner, but there is a saline, almost oceanic aspect peculiar to Chablis, and leading to a lip-licking finish. This might be more interesting in another 12-18 months and will certainly cellar well for at least 2-3 years. From the taste of his 2006 collection, well-known, Puligny-based negociant Olivier Leflaive (whom I did not visit) clearly has a steady hand with the fruit of some good sources. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700