2006 Latricieres Chambertin

Given the superb showing of the 2005, this represents a disappointment, even if it is to be laid at nature's door. In keeping with the capriciousness of hail damage, Trapet's 2006 Latricieres-Chambertin expresses a purity of fruit and fineness of (admittedly abundant) tannis that point to its having come through unscathed. Smoky, spicy pungency abounds here as in other wines of this collection, but the tactile impingements here never become at all aggressive. An admirable sense of underlying density and fresh cherry and plum persist through a finish of impressive length that introduces gamy, ferrous, and ashen notes. This relatively austere cru is probably worth leaving in peace for 2-3 years before revisiting, and I suspect it will be worth following for a half dozen thereafter. Jean-Louis Trapet began picking September 23, and utilized two sorting tables: one for de-stemming by hand (80-90% per wine, radical by estate standards) and one for removing under-ripe or tainted clusters and berries. The fruit all came in between 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol and was not chaptalized. Given the amount of damage control necessitated by hail, this was certainly a challenging vintage for a Gevrey grower determined to stay within the guidelines of a relatively recently-adopted biodynamic regimen, a fact that seems to be borne out by the bottled results. A Patrick Lesec Selection (various importers), Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23