2010 Latricieres Chambertin

The 2010 Latricieres-Chambertin hits all of the registers. Bright floral notes lead to dark cherries, savory herbs and licorice in this gorgeous, utterly impeccable Burgundy. Today the Latricieres is obviously very young and will require considerable time to soften, but it already boasts tremendous depth and sheer personality. Slate, graphite and wet stones are some of the many notes that inform the pointed, beautifully articulated finish. David Croix notes that this parcel had a very high amount of shot berries. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

(from purchased wine in 2010; the '09 release was from purchased wine and fruit): Bright, deep red-ruby. Pungent aromas of small wild red fruits and crushed stone mineralilty. Then surprisingly sweet, lush and creamy on the palate, but with good vinosity owing to its saline, rocky underpinning. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins, an element of green herbs, some spicy oak, and very good length.