1985 Unico

Spain's most consistently great winery continues to turn out exciting wines. There are four Unico Reservas currently in the market. The 1985 Unico Reserva is already revealing considerable complexity and low acid, plump, round, rich flavors. There is no amber to be found in the wine's deep ruby/purple color. The nose offers tobacco, smoke, tar, and gobs of sweet black cherry fruit aromas. Full-bodied, with a layered, nuanced character, high glycerin (hence the sweetness in the flavors), and a lush, round, generously-endowed finish, this is a substantial as well as elegant, savory style of Unico Reserva that can be drunk now and over the next 15+ years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620

Spain's most consistently great winery continues to turn out exciting wines. There are four Unico Reservas currently in the market. The 1985 Unico Reserva is already revealing considerable complexity and low acid, plump, round, rich flavors. There is no amber to be found in the wine's deep ruby/purple color. The nose offers tobacco, smoke, tar, and gobs of sweet black cherry fruit aromas. Full-bodied, with a layered, nuanced character, high glycerin (hence the sweetness in the flavors), and a lush, round, generously-endowed finish, this is a substantial as well as elegant, savory style of Unico Reserva that can be drunk now and over the next 15+ years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620 Wine Advocate.April, 1998

The 1985 Único comes from an era where I feel that Vega Sicilia was not firing on all cylinders, unlike the 1960s, or indeed post-2000. This has a potent nose of plush red fruit laced with mocha, dark chocolate and sage. This has fine definition, yet it lacks the amplitude of the very best vintages that I have encountered. The palate is well built with layers of glycerine-rich red berry fruit commingling with tobacco and light bacon/Italian meat notes. Quite grippy on the finish, though without the precision one might expect, this represents a satisfying though not sensational Unico. Tasted twice at Noble Rot restaurant in London, then blind at the Domaine de Chevalier "5" soirée.