1968 Unico

There were considerable issues with the 1968 Único in this tasting. One of the magnums had lost the cork, which had fallen into the wine, presumably during transport, and the wine was badly oxidized. They had brought two magnums of each vintage, and the second one of 1968 was badly corked. That was a bummer, because 1968 was also one of the greatest years from Vega Sicilia, and I was eager to try it from magnums. I've had a number of regular bottles, and they have been consistently great, lively and even young, with marked old Vega character. Given the exclusive audience that was difficult to gather together, they did the impossible to find another magnum, but it wouldn't make it in time for the tastings. But they did have a regular bottle that they poured between all the tasters; it was just enough for a taste and to realize that this is still on form and has life ahead of it. It was produced with 70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo (white) and bottled at a good 13.5% alcohol. 45,300 bottles and 2,000 magnums produced. Artwork by Ramón Gaya Pomes.

70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. Aged 5 years in large-capacity wooden tank then 6 years in large used cask. 45,300 bottles and 2,000 magnums. The magnum was not poured because of a cork problem but, unbeknown to us tasters, the Vega Sicilia team called round clients they thought likely to have a 1968 to hand. They found a bottle in a private cellar in Barcelona and had it driven up to Girona in a taxi! One bottle poured for all participants. At my table Michel Bettane suggested this must be the best 1968 made anywhere but I spelt out the top 1968s in our database : five scoring 19/20! Gamey but sweet and transparent. Lightly dusty. May have suffered from the taxi journey! (JR)