2004 Chablis Valmur

Sage leaves, rosemary, quartz, and iodine are found in the nose of the 2004 Chablis Valmur (domaine). A wine of awe-inspiring precision as well as depth, it coats the palate with sea shells, minerals, fresh herbs, and liquefied rocks. Though I freely admit to having a special fondness for the Valmur vineyard, this wine hits the taster deep in the soul. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Fine. Mineral. Pure and sleek. Lovely concentration and density. (JR)

(domain) Pale yellow-green. Musky, steely aromas of pineapple, quinine and ginger. Dense, spicy and suave, with chewy, superripeflavors of stone, mint and ginger. Like a block of stone and distinctly Corton-Charlemagne-like. Finishes very long and ripe. Lacks only the grip of the best vintages.