2007 Corton Grand Cru

This finely-tannic Corton should be worth following for at least a decade. Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Moriniere harvested the two parcels that inform his 2007 Corton already on September 3 and 9, a month earlier than the corresponding 2008s. Its red fruits are surprisingly stewed in nature, with leather, toasted nut, and cocoa powder accompaniments, but its generously fruity palate impression leads to a satisfying finish in which just a hint of gum-numbing can be detected. This is one of those many 2007s to enjoy soon, I suspect, rather than to suppose that its tannin argues for extended cellaring. Importers include Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500 and Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808.

Mid crimson. Bottled last April. Aromatic and fruity. Much more charming and fruitier than the 2008 tasted immediately beforehand. But still a little austere on the end. Quite serious stuff. Medium body and attractive bitter cherry fruit. Much denser than most 2007 Cortons. (JR)

Final blend though not yet bottled. Perfumed and vibrant. Sweet, pure aromas become darker and more savoury on the palate. Tannins offer the slightest resistance as the wines slides over the palate. (JH)