2003 Le Corton

The 2003 Corton Grand Cru from Bouchard Père has a light red currant, briar and slightly Oriental bouquet that displays touches of hoisin and red peppercorns. There is some degree of cohesion here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and dark berry fruit laced with allspice and white pepper, leading to a cohesive and structured finish. It might well dry out in the coming years, but it has lasted the course commendably. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2003/2004 tasting in London.

Mid brownish ruby. Low-key nose. Very light leaf mould on the nose. Sweet, rather charming fruit on the mid palate and then really drying tannins on the end. Not a well-balanced wine but if the right – chewy – food were chosen, it could give pleasure. (JR)

Interestingly for such a ripe wine, this is rather reserved on the nose even with vigorous swirling, can only be coaxed to reveal glimpses of very ripe plum, mocha and spice notes leading to massively constituted flavors that explode in the mouth with breathtaking intensity. This is a bruiser of a wine that is every bit as robust and powerful as the Rugiens but with real style and grace despite all of the muscle. In short, wow!