1962 "Y" d'Yquem

The 1962 Yquem is similar to the previous bottle that I tasted a few months earlier. It has a slightly deeper hue, though, closed at first and then opening with mandarin, melted wax and tangerine mixed with rose water, again, quite Barsac-like in character. The palate is finely poised and elegant, with ginger and marmalade fanning out on the tender and viscous finish. I previously suggested that bottles should be drunk sooner rather than later, though on this showing, maybe the 1962 does have longer legs than I expected. Tasted at the Pomerol 1961 dinner in Hong Kong.

The 1962 Yquem has always been a feted vintage. This bottle, served at a private dinner in London, was certainly impressive. It was a late-ripening year and it was only after 15 October that botrytis-affected grapes could be picked. Refulgent in colour, it has a disarming nose with dried honey, candle wax and light adhesive scents, as I observed in a previous bottle 10 years ago, almost Barsac-like in character. What it just lacks vis-a-vis say, the 1959 or 1967 is intent, vivacity and energy. The palate is well balanced with pitch-perfect acidity, those tropes of ginger and orange sorbet noticed before, plenty of residual sugar adorning its mellifluous finish. Excellent, but I would still be inclined to drink bottles sooner rather than later.

Mahogany, must and dust. All the age, but not zombified. The fruit freshness is in the past tense, but the complexity and earth of it is still very attractive. This lady's not for keeping. (RH)