2006 I Sodi di San Nicolo

The 2006 I Sodi di San Niccolo is shaping up to be both one of the wines of the vintage and one of the great all-time versions of this Tuscan thoroughbred. Rich, explosive and totally compelling, the 2006 boasts superb intensity and dazzling overall balance. The 2006 is every bit as promising as it was when it was first released about two years ago. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is adamant about it. Sangioveto is the correct name and spelling of Tuscany’s main indigenous red variety. Panerai is one of Italy’s most successful entrepreneurs. His publishing empire is vast and encompasses a number of journals running the gamut from Milano Finanza, an Italian version of Barron’s, to Class and other glossy lifestyle magazines. Since the late 1970s, Panerai has owned Castellare, one of the jewels of Chianti Classico. Castellare isn’t as well known as the trendiest estates in Tuscany, but the wines rarely fail to impress. The last few years have seen a marked increase in quality throughout the range, especially among the entry-level bottlings. Quality has never been an issue with the flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo, one of the true icons of Chianti Classico that remains under the radar. Fortunately for consumers, prices have yet to catch up with quality. Sodi is 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera from a vineyard in the heart of the estate, where the bunches are typically loose and naturally low in vigor. Today Sodi is fermented in stainless steel, then racked into concrete for the malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged 24 months in French oak barrels, roughly 50% new. Consulting oenologist Maurizio Castelli made the first vintages. Current winemaker Alessandro Cellai arrived in 1997. Readers who want to learn more about Castellare and I Sodi di San Niccolo may want to take a look at my recent video interview with Cellai. Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolo Key Points: 1. 85% Sangioveto/15% Malvasia Nera aged in French oak barrels 2. Made from a low-vigor vineyard in the heart of the property in Castellina 3. Impeccable track record of consistency and excellence 4. Aging potential: 20-30 years

The 2006 I Sodi di San Niccolò is fabulous. Beautifully delineated aromatics meld into a breathtaking array of dark fruit, crushed rocks, smoke, tar, minerals and flowers in this totally thrilling Tuscan red. The fruit completely saturates the palate, while persistent notes of crushed rocks and all things mineral round things out. I love the way Malvasia Nera confers darkness, richness and power to the Sangioveto, but without abandoning a pure-bred Tuscan expression of sheer class. I Sodi has a track record of developing beautifully in bottle and I have no doubt that will be the case here. I Sodi is 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera aged in French oak, of which approximately 50% is new.