1982 Haut Brion

Supple and enveloping, the 1982 Haut-Brion is drinking brilliantly today, wafting from the glass with aromas of red berries and plums, tobacco leaf, cedar box, scorched earth, cigar smoke and walnuts. Medium to full-bodied, broad and sensual, it's fleshy and giving, with a rich core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, resonant finish. At age 40, this is the most charming of the 1982 first growths, yet despite its outgoing personality, it seems to gain in stature with every passing year.

It is time that the 1982 Haut-Brion got the respect it deserves. Forever deemed the "least" of the First Growth, that holds no water if this example is anything to go by, the best of a couple of dozen bottles encountered over many years. Amazingly-fresh on the nose, this shimmers with red fruit, black olive, meat juices and incense, gaining vigour with each swirl of the glass. The palate is perfectly balanced with a lovely line of acidity, focused and refined with just a slightly roasted character towards the finish. Harmonious and effortless, it is the kind of claret that leaves you grinning like a Cheshire cat. (NM)

Enjoyed with Jay McInerney who was precluded from opening it (and the bottle of La Mission 1982 enjoyed alongside) when he took Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin to Frenchette who insisted he chose from their list of natural wines instead. In the prime of life. Mid ruby. Sweet, round, fairly soft (all tannin spent) with the signature warm bricks and tobacco aromas. Smudgy with a hint of sweet cassis. Really very gorgeous. (JR)