2009 Chablis Vaillons

The 2009 Chablis Vaillons bursts onto the palate with layers of citrus, lime, jasmine and sea shells. It is an intensely pointed, energetic wine loaded with class and pedigree. The aromas and flavors meld together beautifully and lead to a multi-dimensional, inviting finish marked by clean, saline notes. This is a 2009 that could use another few years in bottle. Vinification and aging in stainless steel helped keep the Vaillons quite vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the premier and grand crus saw a longer elevage, here roughly 16-18 months. The last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Aromas of white peach and white flowers. Generous and fruity but more delicate than the Tete d'Or, with a subtle sweetness to the white peach and nectarine flavors. Nicely balanced wine, and not at all hot on the back end. Bernard Billaud noted that these 2009s have acidity in the 4 grams-per-liter range, but they come across as a bit softer.

Pure and inviting. Appetite-whetting. Relatively rich in the middle, though it is clear and bright with zesty citrus on the long finish. Classic, minerally Chablis with a friendly face. (JH)