2008 Brunello di Montalcino

A complex mix of savory herbs, plums black cherries, leather and sweet spices emerges from the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Beautifully layered from start to the finish, the 2008 impresses for its exceptional balance and finesse. Its mid-weight style will likely come as a surprise to Valdicava fans, but all the elements come together in the glass. Proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese describes 2008 as a solid vintage across the board, but without the peaks of quality that would have allowed him to make the flagship Madonna del Piano. Instead. Abbruzzese bottled just one Brunelli, and it is fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. Vincenzo Abbruzzese has a cellar full of exceptional wines that will thrill Valdicava fans. The 2012s are spectacular at this stage and, along with the 2010s, are the best wines in the cellar today. In lesser vintages, the estate bottles some Rosso, but in top years there is very little, if any, Rosso. That will be the case with 2011 and 2012 respectively, given the development of the 2011 in the cellar and the exceptional quality of 2012. Abbruzzese made the decision to bottle his entire 2011 production as Rosso, an unheard move, but one that frankly recognizes the quality of that vintage. Abbruzzese told me his wines tend to have a fairly stable and linear development during vinification and in aging. With the 2011s, however, he observed a slow start and a rapid improvement in the cellar, something that concerned him with regard to the potential ageworthiness of the year. As a result, Abbruzzese declassified all of his wine to Rosso in 2011, with the exception of one cask of Madonna del Piano fruit that may eventually be released as straight Brunello. Although Abbruzzese says he still has reservations about the year and wants to be absolutely convinced of the quality of the remaining 2011 before it is released, the distinct possibility remains this cask will also be declassified to Rosso. As for the 2008 Brunello, it is one of the best wines of the vintage. Here, too, Abbruzzese’s decision to blend in the Madonna del Piano lots (there will be no Riserva) contributes markedly to the wine’s quality. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Very heavy bottle! Deep ruby with orange rim. Sweet nose with hints of oak and the beginning of tarry notes (speeded-up evolution). Very much the same on the palate too. Could be a little more refreshing. (WS)

A complex mix of savory herbs, plums black cherries, leather and sweet spices emerges from the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Beautifully layered from start to the finish, the 2008 impresses for its exceptional balance and finesse. Its mid-weight style will likely come as a surprise to Valdicava fans, but all the elements come together in the glass. Proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese describes 2008 as a solid vintage across the board, but without the peaks of quality that would have allowed him to make the flagship Madonna del Piano. Instead. Abbruzzese bottled just one Brunelli, and it is fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. ||Vincenzo Abbruzzese has a cellar full of exceptional wines that will thrill Valdicava fans. The 2012s are spectacular at this stage and, along with the 2010s, are the best wines in the cellar today. In lesser vintages, the estate bottles some Rosso, but in top years there is very little, if any, Rosso. That will be the case with 2011 and 2012 respectively, given the development of the 2011 in the cellar and the exceptional quality of 2012. Abbruzzese made the decision to bottle his entire 2011 production as Rosso, an unheard move, but one that frankly recognizes the quality of that vintage. Abbruzzese told me his wines tend to have a fairly stable and linear development during vinification and in aging. With the 2011s, however, he observed a slow start and a rapid improvement in the cellar, something that concerned him with regard to the potential ageworthiness of the year. As a result, Abbruzzese declassified all of his wine to Rosso in 2011, with the exception of one cask of Madonna del Piano fruit that may eventually be released as straight Brunello. Although Abbruzzese says he still has reservations about the year and wants to be absolutely convinced of the quality of the remaining 2011 before it is released, the distinct possibility remains this cask will also be declassified to Rosso. As for the 2008 Brunello, it is one of the best wines of the vintage. Here, too, Abbruzzese’s decision to blend in the Madonna del Piano lots (there will be no Riserva) contributes markedly to the wine’s quality. eRobertParker.com.June, 2013