1998 Brunello di Montalcino

Medium garnet, the 1998's nose is expressive and penetrating with notes of cherry and berry fruit, cedar, and cloves. The medium weight palate of reasonable depth and weight begins well, but loses some force and continuity, and finishes a bit astringent with a rising level of oak tannins. Drink 2004-2010, though some doubts about the long-term balance seem justified. A rather oaky, international style of Brunello is the trademark of the house. Yet these wines usually need more flesh to completely balance the wood. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620