2008 Brunello di Montalcino

An utterly magnificent wine, the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino graces the palate with wild flowers, violets, rose petals and dark stone fruits. Today, the 2008 is quite brooding and closed in on itself, but the pedigree is obvious in the wine's layered, deeply expressive personality. The 2008 needs time, but there is little question it is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. In 2008, Il Poggione decided against bottling their Riserva (even though that wine was magnificent from cask) so all of the best juice went into the straight bottling.

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the best wines of the year. A relatively big, voluptuous wine for the year, the 2008 impresses for its inner perfume, silky tannins and terrific overall balance. Hints of leather, tobacco and dried herbs add complexity. The 2008 isn't immediately showy as so many recent vintages have been, instead it is a wine built for the cellar. Still, with time in the glass, the wine's exquisite perfume begins to emerge. In 2008, Il Poggione did not bottle a Riserva, all the juice went into the regular bottling. Brunello di Montalcino is highly vintage dependent in the market, especially in the United States. Most people won't look at this wine because of the vintage. Let others make that mistake.

Mid ruby with very small orange rim. Balsamic, meaty and a little heady at first and still needs time for the fruit to come out. Notes of white pepper and black tea leaves and a hint of capsicum. Classy, fine cherry fruit with a dose of austere but fine tannins. Lifted acidity. Not for immediate consumption, though, and well worth cellaring. (WS)