2005 Brunello di Montalcino

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is naturally a more medium-bodied wine than the super-intense 2006. Here the fruit tends towards the red end of the spectrum, while the aromatics show attractive elements of floreality. The 2005 doesn’t have as much sheer depth of fruit as the 2006 so the tannins from both the grapes and the French oak are more exposed. Cedar, tobacco, licorice and worn-in leather develop in the glass, adding complexity to the finish. The 2005 needs to be opened in advance to allow some of the rougher edges to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. A renewed focus on quality is in the air at Banfi. A new sorting table and smaller, custom-designed tanks that allow for parcel-by-parcel vinification were added for the 2007 harvest, and the first results seem promising. I tasted a number of single-clone and single-vineyard Brunelli from the 2009 vintage that showed beautifully, while an approximate blend of the 2007 Brunello was also strong. It will be fascinating to watch the direction Montalcino’s largest and best-known estate takes over the coming years. Importer: Banfi Vintners, Glen Head, NY; tel. (516) 626-9200

Almost opaque dark brownish ruby. Quite subdued, fresh cherries steeped in chocolate. Quite mellow, round dark fruit and red fruit jam palate. Amazingly accessible and open already. (WS)