2009 Corton Bressandes

The 2009 Corton-Bressandes is a huge, meaty wine. There is plenty of richness and intensity; in fact at times the fruit shows elements of over ripeness. The finish turns more sensual, but the Bressandes remains a touch rustic. This could use a little more energy and polish. This is one of the first parcels Drouhin converted to biodynamic farming. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2023. Drouhin farms 75 hectares of vineyards according to biodynamic principles. Maceration and fermentation lasts about three weeks. The wines are then racked into oak in a cold part of the cellar to slow down the malos, although in 2009 they were entirely done by December. The estate leaves the wines on their lees for several months with one racking, or two if needed, prior to being assembled for bottling. New oak ranges from 25% for the entry-level wines to 50-65% for the grand crus. Veronique Drouhin thinks the 2009s will stay open throughout their lives, much as the 1985s have. All of these 2009s were bottled between early December, 2010 and January, 2011. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

(bottled in September) Good deep red. Perfumed aromas of licorice, pepper, caramel and flowers, with fruit in the deep background. Pliant, gentle and easygoing, in a distinctly linear style. Very suave, palate-coating wine that finishes with good length and supple tannins. A refined wine, but I wanted more concentration for grand cru.

The 2009 Corton-Bressandes is a huge, meaty wine. There is plenty of richness and intensity; in fact at times the fruit shows elements of over ripeness. The finish turns more sensual, but the Bressandes remains a touch rustic. This could use a little more energy and polish. This is one of the first parcels Drouhin converted to biodynamic farming. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2023. May 2011, www.robertparker.com