2009 Chablis Montmains

By contrast, the 2009 Chablis Montmains presents a rounder expression of fruit. The Montmains comes across as quite generous and sensual, with hints of white peaches, flowers and mint that caress the palate on the polished finish. I imagine the Montmains will be approachable early. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. (Not yet released) Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village’s uncontested superstars. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale yellow. Crystallized citrus peel and a whiff of minerality on the nose. Dense, dry and penetrating; more tactile and saline than the Foret but less fat. A bit stunted from the bottling: this will need a year or two to display its personality.

Bright, pure aromas of pineapple, lemon and minerals lifted by mint. Dense and sweet, with excellent lift to the fruit-driven flavors of pineapple and peach. Finishes long and juicy, with very good verve. No shortage of structure here.