2004 Chablis Montmains

(bottled in March of this year, a couple months before the rest of these 2004s) Pale color with a green tinge. Discreet, pure aromas of lemon and white pepper. Less supple and considerably less rich than the young 2005, and distinctly tighter than the 2004 Forets. But this brisk, citrussy wine shows strong soil tones of wet stone and minerals and considerable energy in the mouth.

Resiny minerals can be detected in the nose of the 2004 Chablis Montmains. Plump, ample, and rich, it offers toast, apple, and pear flavors in a soft, extroverted character. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. The Raveneau brothers were in the process of bottling their 2004s when I visited the estate in late April, 2006. “This is a vintage of pleasure, the 2004s are simple wines, they do not have a powerful constitution,” said Bernard Raveneau, who concentrates on vineyard work and handles the vinifications. (His brother Francois deals with all the tractor work as well as the administrative issues.) He reiterated what I’d heard in all of Burgundy’s cellars, that the yields had gotten totally out of control during the rain-plagued month of August. “We harvested 70 hectoliters per hectare on average across the entire estate. We’ve never seen such a plethoric vintage!” Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale, green-tinged color. Musky, slightly reduced aromas of lemon, lime and flint. Then rather tight and closed in the mouth, with subtly perfumedflavors of citrus fruits and minerals. Fresh finish hints at quinine.