2009 Chablis Montmains

The 2009 Chablis Montmains (Maison) presents plenty of textural richness and depth but through the bright, focused lens of the Fevre style of the 2009s. Here, too, the fruit is bright and well-delineated. White flowers and white peaches linger on the powerful finish. This is mostly from Montmains and Forets. The Montmains is made from purchased fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general, the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the premier and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the premier and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009 insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s are wines built on fruit best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Pale green-yellow. Menthol, white pepper and a mineral note on the slightly reduced nose. Brisk but quite closed in the middle palate, with a distinct metallic minerality dominating. A bit hard to warm to. (Incidentally, I rated the Chablis Domaine 88 points at the beginning of June, vs. 87 a year ago, as this newer sample showed lovely peachy fruit and a ripe, firm finish.)

Lovely complex though delicate aromas – mineral and just a little nutty with light citrus. Sustained but not much depth. (JH)