2007 Chablis Vaudesir

Tangerine, lemon, and coconut headline the Moreau 2007 Chablis Vaudesir, which presents a convincingly pure, refined palate impression that integrates fresh citrus; bitterness of fruit pits; and crushed stone into a texturally plush yet vivacious whole. Hints of caramel and lanolin that point to the barrel are also assimilated here, in no way detracting from the sense of pure fruit, invigorating energy, or sheer length. I would expect this to be worth following for at least 6-8 years. I confessed in issue 179 to my difficulties in entirely appreciating the vinous results of Christian and Fabien Moreau’s clearly enormously quality-conscious and diligent efforts (described there in some detail), especially in view of awkwardly detached notes of oak and sometimes of lactic acidity. The nature of the 2007 vintage seems to have mitigated this somewhat, and the vivacity of these wines as a group is noteworthy and highly encouraging. I was given a fascinating opportunity this spring to taste the four earlier vintages of Moreau Les Clos, and while unconvinced by its three predecessors, I found the 2006 more elegant and refined, with its woodiness a bit toned down from when I reviewed it in issue 179, although it betrays some heat. Fabien Moreau says he targets 12.5% as an ideal measure of alcohol, which required chaptalizing his 2007s slightly, so the richness and body that these wines exhibit does not come from there. Picking commenced here September 6 because, Fabien Moreau maintained, his fruit was ripe by then. Beginning with 2008, the wines will all – at least, in principle – be fermented exclusively with indigenous yeasts, as was already the case with most of the 2007s, and the viticulture regimen will continue to move in a biodynamic direction. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Pale, bright yellow. Citrus, stone and smoke on the nose, lifted by violet and ginger topnotes. Rich and refined, with lovely aromatic lift to the pure flavors of lemon, poached pear, crushed stone and minerals. At once tactile and silky, with sexy oak suggestions of vanilla and spice. Finishes with terrific breadth and verve, the lemon and crushed stone flavors repeating.

(this was moved from barrels to tank in April) Medium yellow. Smoky, musky, peppery nose. Rounder and fatter than the Vaillons Guy Moreau but without quite that wine's intensity or structure. This is less complex and pungent, with its fatter texture conveying an impression of lower acidity. As was the case with the 2006 last spring, I find a slight dryness from the oak. (I predict that this cuvee will get less oak in the future, at least until the vines reach adolescence.)