2009 Chablis Vaudesir

The estate’s 2009 Chablis Vaudesir bursts onto the palate with an exciting melange of ripe fruit, minerals and smoke. The Vaudesir impresses for its textural elegance, sheer beauty and pure finish. There is a weightlessness here that is hard to describe but that separates it from most of the other wines in this lineup. This steep, south-facing site is the first to mature at Fevre, yet there is no heaviness whatsoever in the glass. The Vaudesir is a strikingly beautiful, complete Chablis. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Very pale green-tinged yellow. Citrus peel, vanilla and toast on the reticent nose. Rich, broad and spicy, with a pronounced yet delicate element of white flowers. Sound acids for the vintage keep it fresh, but this is more open-knit today than the Bougros. The aromatic finish features white flowers and fresh herbs. I don't find the exotic fruit component this wine showed a year ago. Still, it will be at its best before the Bougros.

Lightly creamy and fragrant. Undemonstrative but elegant and a determined structure leads to a long finish. (JH)