2010 Chablis Vaudesir

The 2010 Chablis Vaudésir starts off rather cool and inward before it positively explodes on the mid-palate and finish. It is a beautiful, fleshy Chablis that impresses for its expansive volume and sheer pedigree.

The 2010 Chablis Vaudesir starts off rather cool and inward before it positively explodes on the mid-palate and finish. It is a beautiful, fleshy Chablis that impresses for its expansive volume and sheer pedigree. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. (Not yet released) This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006, a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel, depending on the specific wine, as noted above. The 2010s, which I tasted from tank in their final blends, were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles, including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir, both of which were in great shape. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Bright yellow-green. Lime and honey on the nose. Pure and intensely fruity but quite closed today, even a bit youthfully disjointed. Plenty of volume in the middle palate but dry on the back end. Very hard to taste owing to the recent sulfiting. But this was picked before the rain, noted Droin.