2006 Chablis Vaudesir

Employing the methods as for his Valmur, Droin arrives at a 2006 Chablis Vaudesir that could scarcely be more different. Toasted milled grains in the nose really do put one momentarily in mind of Meursault, but a distinctively Chablis-like, oceanic brininess mingles on the palate with toasted nuts and grains. Rich and impressively concentrated in finish, this lacks the clarity of Droin’s best wines, and a hint of obvious but uninteresting barrel character is showing through. I would have liked to revisit it a few months later, and do not doubt that it would age well for at least 4-6 years. From the oldest vines in his domaine (planted by his great-grandfather), Benoit Droin’s recent collections display increasing mastery of his medium and continued willingness to experiment, even as he extends his range of crus. His have become some of the most interesting wines in Chablis, not to mention being outstanding values. Droin prides himself on being able to harvest ahead of most of his colleagues – which in 2006 meant in advance of the official starting date – although he adds that 2007 has proved an exception to that rule. Droin by choice sells what for the region constitutes a relatively high one third share of his wine inside France. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565