2006 Chablis Vaudesir

The Billaud 2006 Chablis Vaudesir smells exotically if not oddly of white truffle, white asparagus, and toasted almond. Glycerin-rich and expansive on the palate, yet not at all heavy, this preserves the flavor of white asparagus, adding grapefruit zest, white pepper and chalk dust, which in turn contribute to a pungent sense of stimulation in the finish. While hardly an orthodox grand cru, one cannot fault this on flavor interest. I expect it will be best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years, though it should be fascinating to see how it evolves. Bernard Billaud’s 2006s reflected their relatively late picking and encroaching botrytis of that vintage in opulence and exoticism. His 2007 premier crus – excepting a hail-influenced Mont-de-Milieu – could hardly be more different: models of brightness, long-line, and transparency to mineral nuance. As usual, the grand cru wines here are released late, and Billaud is highly reluctant to show them in company with the premier crus of the same vintage, so I include on this occasion my notes on those finished 2006s. Billaud’s nephew – a stake holder who has had hands-on responsibility in the cellar in recent years – left the estate after the vinification of the 2008s, amid rumors of an impending legal dispute. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900