1985 Volnay Santenots du Milieu

Tasted from magnum, this is a sublime attestation of the vineyard, winemaker and vintage. The nose is immediately striking thanks to its otherworldly delineation and purity: dark cherries mingling with wild strawberry, life-affirming mineralite and a sheen that belongs more to Vosne-Romanee than Volnay. The palate does not disappoint, embroidered with filigree tannins, a convincing sense of symmetry and a thrilling sense of harmony. Everything here just seems to be in its right place and it is damn difficult to fault. Dominique Lafon raised the bar with this special Volnay that might still represent the vineyard’s apotheosis. Drink now-2025+. Tasted September 2013.