1978 Volnay Santenots du Milieu

Apparently Dominique Lafon regarded the 1978 Volnay Santenots as a benchmark wine until the 1985 came along. I can see why. Lighter in color than the 1976 and commensurate with a 35-year-old wine, it has a charming animally, feral bouquet with a cheeky dab of menthol that emerges from the wings with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with dry and firm tannins, but unlike the 1976, here it is counterbalanced with decayed red berry fruit infused with ferrous notes and Cepes. It swaggers in its dotage – lovely. Drink now-2020. Tasted September 2013.