1999 Saffredi

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Alicante. In contrast to 1998, 1999 began with a cold winter, while spring was mild and sunny. The summer that followed was hot and rainless with a few downpours at the end of September, the dampness preventing perfect ripeness of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest between 12 September and 5 October. 18,000 bottles produced. ​​​​​​​ Magnum. Dark intense garnet. Smells quite reserved, as though there is masses here, but it has not yet revealed itself. Rather dangerous and edgy on the nose. Very dense and still embryonic. Very chewy on the end still. Massive tannins dominate the fruit. I think the bottle would probably show better than the magnum at this stage, but I am scoring the magnum size. (JR)

The 1999 Saffredi is an immensely gratifying wine. It could almost be mistaken for a Burgundy, so pure and sweet is the bouquet. The 1999 is a decidedly understated, graceful Saffredi that impresses for its elegance and finesse rather than for its heft. Hints of French oak, smoke, autumn leaves, tar and tobacco add the final layers of complexity. I am not sure the 1999 has much upside from here, but it should continue to drink well for another decade.

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Alicante In contrast to 1998, 1999 began with a cold winter whilst the spring was mild and sunny. The summer that followed was hot and rainless with a few downpours at the end of September whose damp climate favoured a good but not excellent maturity of the Cabernet Sauvignon. The harvest was carried out between 12 September and 5 October. 18,000 bottles produced Christian Le Sommer becomes the new consultant winemaker Fragrant and lifted. Quite a different style from the 1998 and one that I prefer – more finesse. Tighter. As though racked less frequently (but this may be a wild and totally uninformed guess). This wine should have an admirably long life. Sleek and refined but with no loss of personality or impact. Very chewy, toasty and appetising. Bravo! (JR)