2007 Meursault Tete de Murger

The latest installment of the marriage he arranged between Casse Tete and Les Murgers, Javillier’s 2007 Meursault Tete de Murgers evinces scents of toasted grain and grapefruit zest, but also brine, sweat, white pepper, passion fruit, mint, and chicken stock – an amalgam that put me a bit in mind of Chablis, or – in all honesty (and with no offense meant!) – Saint-Bris or Pouilly-Fume. Nobody can claim the nose here lacks diversity, and this sets up an energetic oscillation between fruit (luscious grapefruit and honeydew melon) and mineral notes on the palate that will keep you fascinated and delighted. Not just the reprise of citrus zest, mint, white pepper, and salt in the finish but also the virtually vibratory sense of energy displayed makes this uncommonly invigorating. It might not be classic Meursault, but it is a gorgeous wine. How well it will age I can only guess (6 or more years?), but certainly do not miss drinking some young! Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Bright, pale yellow. Complex, pure, high-pitched aromas of white peach and flowers. Precise, intense and weightless, with lovely energy and lift to the white peach and floral flavors. Wonderfully elegant, nuanced, complete Meursault with lively lemony acidity and a fine-grained texture. Superb.

Hints of curry spices on the nose, Sleek and rich on the palate. Satisfying and long. (JR)