2008 Chablis

The 2010 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is another of the more delicate, refined premier crus at Fevre. Despite its initial ethereal opening, the wine boasts serious density and richness just waiting to emerge over time. The 2010 is a wine that impresses for its length, vibrancy and sheer persistence. This is very much a less immediate style, but there is a hidden intensity that I suspect will more fully emerge over the next few years. The 2010 Montee de Tonnerre is a wine of true pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. (AG)

Smoky, fusil crushed chalk and fresh lemon in the nose of Fevre’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos lead to a palate lusciously-brimming with fresh apricot, lemon, and grapefruit, suffused with chalk, white pepper, salt, iodine, green tea, and distilled herbal essences. Exhilarating and rejuvenating, this finishes with a tenacity, vivacity, and tactile presence hard to equal in the vintage. A gripping, ultra-mineral Les Clos, for all of its sheer fruit intensity, it makes no concessions to charm or winsomeness, particularly in its mineral-dominated finish, which some may consider austere. But few will be able to weather this cru’s gutsy intensity unbent, or scour its residues from their gums and lips. (DS)

Here too the elegance of the nose is simply stunning with a layered and perfumed aromatic profile trimmed in an almost invisible touch of oak that allows it to ooze Chablis character and in particular, a fine minerality that continues onto the impressively concentrated and palate staining flavors that possess striking precision on the explosively long and bone dry finish. This is a great Les Clos that will make old bones.