2004 Chablis

The spice-scented 2004 Chablis (domaine) is light to medium-bodied and creamy-textured. It reveals excellent depth of fruit, a satiny-texture, as well as a concentrated, fresh character. This lovely wine’s flavor profile offers loads of spices, minerals, and pears. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Very cool and pure and more substantial than the Petit Chablis. Green and lively and absolutely CLASSIC! (JR)

(domain cuvee; bottled two weeks prior to my visit) Pale, green-tinged yellow. Lemony nose is stunted from the recent miseJuicy, pure and on the dry side, with fairly intenseflavors of white peach and lemon. Finishes with good cut and length.