2003 Romanee Conti

($3120) Good red-ruby. Knockout nose of black raspberry, tobacco and flowers; vibrant for 2003. Then dense, creamy and seamless yet almost shockingly vibrant, with outstanding balance and an impression of firm acids. In fact, this is the highest in acidity of these 2003s, with a pH of 3.5 (the rest are between 3.6 and 3.65, according to Villaine). The mounting finish goes on and on. Great wine, perhaps monumental.

Bright crimson. Extraordinarily opulent, open nose. Very very rich and ripe and absolutely on the borderline of overripe flavours but hugely enjoyable. Slightly brûlée and lots of fine tannins underneath. Quite marked acidity too – the first of these wines to show acidity. Dangerous dramatic stuff that perhaps expresses the vintage more than the Tâche. All upfront with a little bit of astringence and coffee dregs on the finish. Very very different in style from La Tâche – arguably less complete. (JR)