2009 Volnay Caillerets

The 2009 Volnay Les Caillerets is a rather dark, imposing wine in this lineup. Here the aromatics are a touch subdued, but what impresses is the authoritative, masculine personality. There is more than enough sheer extract to balance the firm tannins on the incisive finish. This looks to be one of the wines that will require the most patience.

The 2009 Volnay Les Caillerets is a rather dark, imposing wine in this lineup. Here the aromatics are a touch subdued, but what impresses is the authoritative, masculine personality. There is more than enough sheer extract to balance the firm tannins on the incisive finish. This looks to be one of the wines that will require the most patience. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted the 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Medium red. Complex scents of black cherry, strawberry, crushed stone, blood orange, smoke and underbrush; more soil tones and less fruit on the nose than the Clos des Chenes. Then wonderfully sweet, silky and complex in the mouth; the richest of these young 2009s, with compelling depth to its red fruit, spice and mineral flavors. At once vibrant and generous on the long, tactile whiplash of a finish.