1999 La Mission Haut Brion

The 1999 Château La Mission Haut-Brion is less voluptuous and expansive than the Haut-Brion, but it brings a touch more finesse as well as precision. Fully mature and drinking at point, it has classic Pessac ripe red and black fruits as well as chalky minerality, spice, tobacco, and chocolaty earth-like nuances. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, this wonderfully balanced, elegant, silky 1999 is just a charming, satisfying wine to enjoy any time over the coming decade or more.

The 1999 La Mission Haut-Brion has long been one of the “dark horses” from the estate, sandwiched between the 1998 and 2000 and unfairly overlooked. This bottle reveals an intense bouquet that has far more chutzpah than I presupposed. Black fruit, charcoal, singed leather and just a subtle hint of game are all delivered with impressive definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and a marine influence is more noticeable than a decade ago when I last tasted it. While it has not quite lost its rather conservative and well-behaved finish, it is a thoroughly enjoyable La Mission Haut-Brion that might represent better value than more feted vintages. Tasted from an ex- château bottle at the estate.