1997 La Ricolma

A mammothly constituted offering is the black/purple-colored 1997 La Ricolma (100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled with virtually no clarification). It is unctuously-textured, phenomenally-concentrated, and extraordinarily intense, with surreal levels of extract, glycerin, and richness. Its olfactory bombardment begins with scents of melted chocolate, roasted espresso, and oodles of black cherry and blackberry fruit. It is thick and phenomenally rich. However, despite its monstrous size, weight, and constitution, this wine is well-delineated, and remarkably refreshing to drink, although knocking off a bottle between two people might prove challenging. This sensational effort is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Inky ruby-black color. Aromas of plums and chocolate-covered cherries, along with notes of vanilla and cinnamon and a freshness that recalls freshly pressed grapes. Quite powerful on entry, then potent and alcoholic, with low acidity contributing to the wine's sweet, viscous texture. This is so concentrated that it might best be drunk with a funnel. But it hasn't yet come into final focus. Very long on the aftertaste. A wine that does not fit into any conventional categories. San Giusto a Rentennano has made this merlot since 1993, but none of the previous efforts could possibly prepare one for this 1997. The ideal wine for the cellar of Arnold Schwarzenegger or Lou ("The Hulk") Ferrigno-assuming they can handle it.