2010 Corton Le Rognet

The 2010 Corton Rognet is utterly beguiling from the very first taste. An exotic bouquet redolent of incense, tar, licorice and smoke melds into a core of expressive dark fruit as this powerful Burgundy opens up in the glass. The Rognets impresses for its energy and focus, both of which it has in spades. An exuberant, expressive finish has the last say in this fabulous Corton. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Romain Taupenot lost between 25-40% of his 2010 production to the poor weather, although some of his lower lying parcels were down as much as 80%. Fortunately the Grand Crus were down only 15% on average. The harvest began on September 23. Taupenot reported that the fruit required some sorting in the winery. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620, Imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com

Big and sweet and gamey. Very sweet start. Sweet rich and sinewy. Lots to get your teeth into. Crunchy fruit. Nicely sculpted. (JR)

The 2010 Corton Rognet is utterly beguiling from the very first taste. An exotic bouquet redolent of incense, tar, licorice and smoke melds into a core of expressive dark fruit as this powerful Burgundy opens up in the glass. The Rognets impresses for its energy and focus, both of which it has in spades. An exuberant, expressive finish has the last say in this fabulous Corton. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Feb 2012, www.robertparker.com