2002 Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes Les Minots

The 2002 Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes des Minots sports an intensely rich mineral liqueur-scented nose. This nectar of flint, rock, and spice is super-concentrated, with magnificent grip, breadth, and length. Lushly-textured, medium-bodied, and complex, it is a magnificent Chablis. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. Jean Marie Guffens is ecstatic about 2002. “This is the best vintage we’ve done at Verget. From Macon to the Cote d’Or to Chablis, it is like a concentrated 1992. We were able to harvest in each area at the optimal time. We have great ripeness, not overripe, with excellent acidity, and the bulk prices that we paid actually dropped. The only problem in 2002 was some volatile acidity during fermentation, so we used more sulphur earlier than usual. Alcoholic fermentations took an extremely long time, and some of our malolactic fermentations were completed before the sugar was all eaten.” A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 and North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers; tel. (800) 525-9699

(from a prime parcel of 60-year-old vines that yielded just 40 hectoliters per hectare in 2002, says Guffens) Subtle aromas of minerals and wet stone; creamier on the nose than the regular Vaillons. Pure, sweet flavors of stone fruits and wet stone. Then dense and sweet on the back end, with a tactile texture and a strong flavor of liquid stone. Like a fruit tart with cream on top, says Guffens. At 13.6% natural alcohol, this is the ripest of these 2002s.