2006 Beaune Clos des Ursules

When I last tasted the Jadot 2006 Beaune Vignes Franches Clos des Ursules, it had been assembled but not bottled. After the high-toned, tart manifestations of red fruits that dominate so many of Jadot's Cote de Beaune wines of this vintage, in this instance charred and smoked meat aromas and broth-like richness tinctured with iodine and suffused with crushed stone made for a dark, serious mien on a dense but finely-tannic palate. It's not that fresh berries are entirely absent here, though, and the finish is invigorating as well as gripping. This is going to be a fine and fascinating rendition of an iconic Jadot wine worth following for at least a decade. And how many genuinely iconic red Burgundies can be had for $100, much less - as in this instance - $50 a bottle? Jacques Lardiere testifies that while there was more widespread rot of Pinot Noir in 2007 than in 2006, the latter was more insidious and challenging as it was less evident on the surface of the berries, and often hidden within the grape clusters. That said, he confirmed the observation of many other growers that sorting out under-ripe berries was at least as formidable a task as removing rot. The results here this year speak to the success of Jadot's rigor, and even from the Cote de Beaune there are many wines in this collection that in their sometimes understated, but also often texturally more refined way have nothing to fear from comparison with the 2005s at a similar state. (At ten years of age, it will no doubt be a different matter.) Lardiere claims that the beneficial effects of biodynamic procedures are being felt now in certain wines from vineyards where he began employing them after being impressed by what he took to be their healing efficacy in the aftermath of 2004 hail. No other vintage, he says, comes to mind that compares with this one for its combination of refinement and complexity with youthful accessibility. When pressed, he hazards some comparison to 2000 and 2001, but adds that the best 2006s are better. That their importer has long owned the controlling interest in Jadot may permit them unusual flexibility in pricing for the American market. What's certain is that the suggested retails publicized for their 2006s - most, slightly beneath those of the 2005 vintage - look remarkably low when compared with those reached in the last several years by other top Burgundy producers. A Jadot grand- or premier cru bottling is often priced like other growers' respective premier crus and village wines, rendering this enormous operation a source not only of continued consistently high quality and frequent distinction, but also of rare good value in red Burgundy. (There are several different domaine distinctions for Jadot wines, and of course some - albeit a diminishing number - are based on or incorporate contract fruit or purchased juice. But since the labels all display an easily recognized common Jadot identity, and since Jadot often exercises tight control over or enjoys very long-standing contracts on fruit that informs their negociant business, I have not noted these distinctions as part of each wine's description, but only occasionally - if deemed especially relevant - in the text of my tasting note.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490-9300