1999 Sa'etta

The barrique-aged cuvee of 100% Sangiovese, the 1999 Saetta, boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet nose of black currants, blackberries, smoke, and vanillin. The wine is full-bodied and ripe, with melted tannin, exceptional concentration, and a long finish. Initially, I thought it was internationally styled, but Sangiovese's distinctive character emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2014. This artisinal wine comes at a high price, but it is interestingly packaged, and, most importantly, impressive. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411