1998 Sassicaia

The 1998 Bolgheri Sassicaia presents an interesting challenge and counter position. It feels like it is traveling at two speeds. On first nose, you are reminded of its age thanks to oxidized tones of dried spice, cumin, cured meat and bresaola. Despite the wine's clearly evolved state, it also bursts forth with an impressive charge of dark fruit integrity, fullness and freshness. Lingering mineral tones add polished elegance and a sense of delineated grace that is memorable and ultimately very beautiful. Those marine tones appear throughout the texture of this wine like a delicate embroidery. If the wine appears huddled and hunched down on first approach, you find that it suddenly stands tall and glorious after a few quick swirls of the glass.

Lustrous mid ruby with a bricky rim. Beautiful, fine nose of cassis and undergrowth, laced with oak, yet a little fuller than its bordeaux blueprint. A little locked up, but the palate shows fine sweet cassis and long-lasting grainy tannins. Gorgeous freshness on the finish. The oak is noticeable, but the whole is far from falling apart. (WS)

I just drank this in Zurich today and it is clearly the best Sassicaia since 1988, and it gets better and better in the bottle. It really does remind me of the awesome 1988, which can be better than the legendary 1985. The 1998 shows so many layers of dark fruit, cedar and terra cotta on the nose. It's intense and powerful; stony with sweet tobacco and berry undertones plus currants and sultanas. It's full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins and great depth. It's not completely open yet. Decant two hours in advance before serving.