2000 Chablis Vaucoupin

(made entirely in cuve; the yield here was less than 50 hectoliters per hectare, according to Grossot, modest for this copious vintage) Highly aromatic nose combines discreet floral and mineral notes, smoke and truffle. Silky but firm in the mouth; chewy but light on its feet. Not a particularly fruity style but nicely delineated and elegant, thanks to juicy acids. Finishes with firm minerality and excellent length and cut.