2008 Chambertin

The classic scents of rose petal and licorice, allied to game, cassis, and dark cherry along with ethereal, penetrating distilled herbs and berries make for a heady aromatic display in Bize-Leroy’s 2008 Chambertin, then exhibit themselves on a palate that combines richness and vivacity, textural allure with firm underlying structure, and above all density with uncanny levity. The incursion of salted red meat juices lends another layer of complexity while tugging relentlessly at your salivary glands, whereas fruit pit piquancy and chalky minerality in no way deflect the purity of this Chambertin’s inexorable fountain of fruit. This is one of those instances were a wine is so arresting it takes control of you. I felt enervated and afterward exhausted. For the few lucky enough to acquire three bottles of this, perhaps one per decade would be the proper measure. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040