2005 Chambertin

Leroy’s 2005 Chambertin (like her Musigny and Clos Vougeot, from three parcels) leads with a knockout punch of super-concentrated, liqueur-like black raspberry, cassis, and licorce, rose petal (no, make that the whole rose garden!), and deep, roasted meatiness. Monumentally dense, yet vibrant and energetic, this builds momentum on the palate as it adds black pepper, tactile cinnamon spice, and distilled fruit and herb concentration. I have seldom experienced such a literal (not to mention phenomenally long) finish: it simply wiped the floor with your humble critic. If I were ever to encounter this wine in the ring again, I pray that it won’t be for at least a decade (and that it spots me 98 points). Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Bright, deep ruby-red. Wild, highly complex nose offers dark fruits, nuts, meat and underbrush. Suave and silky on entry, then dense and chewy in the middle, with a smoky suggestion of earth. This expands impressively toward the back, finishing with wonderfully fine tannins and great building length. The longest of these wines today, along with the Romanee-Saint-Vivant. And concentrated enough to go on for decades.