2005 Beaune Teurons

Coming largely from 60 year-old vines in stony, iron-rich soil just below Cras, the Germain 2005 Beaune Teurons exudes musky, mysteriously animal scents and hints of citrus zest along with more predictable black fruits, smoked meat and brown spices. In the mouth, smoked meats and pungent, hard-to-pin-down minerality dominate and there is a chewy density born of abundant, fine tannins. Musky, spicy, smoky pungency returns, along with lower-toned meatiness and persistent minerality in a broadly mouth-coating, downright gripping palate. This dense Pinot lacks the immediate charm of the Domaine de Saux, though in the course of time, it will surpass that wine. Indeed, I would plan to cellar this Teurons for 7-10 years, anticipating that it could remain worth revisiting for twice that time. Also recommended: 2005 Chorey-les-Beaune ($25.00; 86). Benoit Germain has been at pains to retain the distinctive personalities and terroir transparency as well as ageability that wines of Chateau de Chorey routinely displayed under his father Francois’s regimen, while at the same time, through varied and sensitive fermentative techniques promoting more flattering primary fruit, refining tannic structure, and thus rendering wines more approachable in their youth. Germain is also beginning to incorporate elements of biodynamics. Malos took place promptly in Spring, but he seemed in no hurry when I visited to begin the bottling of his Beaune crus, which will take place without filtration. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70. Also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977 4476 and a Scott Levy Selection, Norcross, GA; tel. (770) 730 0361