1992 Beaune Greves Clos Blanc

The Gageys make no bones about rating 1989, 1985, and 1986 as significantly richer, more complex vintages for white burgundy than 1992. Their 1992s are successful, but based on my impressions of the 1992s vis a vis the 1989s, 1986s, and 1985s, I would agree with their assessment. The white winemaking philosophy in low acid years such as 1992 is to only do a partial malolactic fermentation in order to preserve the natural acidity. This has proven to be a highly successful policy, resulting in some of the longest-lived white burgundies of the region. The 1992 Beaune-Les Greves blanc is the best wine I have tasted from this small vineyard that is better-known for its red wines. It possesses surprising intensity and ripeness, with an earthy, lemony, buttery nose, medium body, and crisp acidity to buttress the richness and heady finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY.