2004 Meursault Chevalieres

Penetrating aromas of lemon peel and crushed stone. Intensely flavored, chewy and powerful; a major mouthful of rocks and minerals. Wonderfully mineral wine with an explosive, palate-saturating finish. As firm as this is, it's not hard. A compelling drink.

Sample 1: Low-key nose. Sraight, lemony and correct. All in its place. Some undertow, but could do with a little more lift. Sample 2: Light scent. Very pure. Lots of lovely lemony fruit. Very lively. Much more successful than his 2003s. Definition. (JR)

Candied lemon peel and spices on the perfumed nose. Glyceral and round; this has a bit of graisse, notes Fichet, and there's also a bit of remaining sugar yet to be fermented. But strong mineral cut and a saline impression of dry extract give shape to the wine. This has terrific chewiness for a 2004.